Category Archives: 2014

The Beginning / Leaving Home

Down By The Banks Of The Ohio

Angel From Montgomery was the last song I sang before I left my home. I met some friends in a dark karaoke bar that always smells like a swimming pool, to conclude a hot summer night spent standing down by the banks of the Ohio. Earlier in that night, stars shone above as we stood below, Willie Nelson leading the congregation to plead, “may the circle be unbroken,” to proclaim, “I’ll fly away,” and testify, “I saw the light.” I wandered into the karaoke bar as the night drew to an end only to confess, “to believe in this living is just such a hard way to go,” into a microphone that had seen better days, which smelled (and tasted) like sweat. Excusing myself to go pack, I bid farewell to my friends and hometown sometime after midnight – I was out the door and swept up in the current of the endless highway. I merged onto I-65 in the sober light of day the next afternoon. I was Southern-bound. The Grateful Dead were on the radio. “I’ll get up and fly away,” Jerry resounded. 

Music City, USA

I unpacked my suitcase in my new bedroom in Nashville that night, terrified and exhilarated. Jerry Garcia’s familiar voice provided comfort in a strange city, as he ruminated about telling sweet lies and saying good night one last time though the radio: “to lay me down (to be with you, once more).”

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I’d taken an internship in Nashville on a whim, and decided in the matter of a few weeks that it was time for me to go out and into the great wide open. I’d always been reluctant to leave my hometown, but a broken heart will drive you out onto the road like nothing else. I’d found an affordable place in Nashville on Airbnb. It seemed idyllic and beautiful, and I immediately fell in love and knew it would be a much better fit than the $1,200/month dorm rooms at Vanderbilt. I read every single review, Facebook stalked the host, consulted a few of my friends – but ultimately, I decided that I didn’t care what anybody else thought, and simply told them with unwavering conviction that I was moving to Nashville to live with strangers I found on the internet. I drove down the winding road leading to the holler that contains the six acres that the Village occupies, as my heart raced with anticipation. “If I don’t call you in the next 15 minutes, I’m dead and buried in somebody’s basement,” was the last transmission I sent to a friend before pulling up the gravel driveway for the first time.

The Village

The host came out to greet me. He introduced himself and helped me with my suitcase and gave me a tour of the land: the main house, the barn, the RV camping area occupying the space behind the barn. I quickly realized I’d be far from the only other person living there. I had a revolving door of anywhere from eight to fifteen or more roommates at any given time, travelers of all ages from all over America and the world. It wasn’t unusual for me to come into the kitchen to fetch my laundry and encounter someone I’d never met before from some country I’d never been to, like the aspiring country singer from Australia who I shared my fancy cheese with during my first week there. Believe it or not, you eventually get used to strangers walking into your home, having to introduce yourself to someone sitting on your front porch, and being awoken by roosters crowing. Everyone I described it to back home called it a commune, which I eventually stopped fighting, but seeing as how “commune” tends to have Charles Manson-y connotations, I preferred to call it a “village” since, you know, that’s less weird.

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My first summer at the commune Village was the most exciting and adventure-filled summer of my life to date, but there will be plenty of time to regale you with stories of what happened in the time between my first arrival and my first departure. And really, it is as weird but also not as weird as it all sounds.

Back Home, Again

The last few weeks of my first season in Nashville was mourned by taking the long way home after my internship each day, listening to the River Jordan on repeat for 20-something miles with the windows down and a cold wind in August blowing in, driving down a two-lane highway until the sun went down, with an aching feeling that this beautiful summer of waking up and not knowing which city I was in was about to come to an end.

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It’s been exactly five months since Paradise has been my mailing address and I feel this rest has been needed, if you can call driving straight through from sunrise to sunset to New York and walking its streets until my feet bled, finding myself in Chicago from time to time and being in Nashville every other weekend a “rest.” I like to believe that when last summer faded into fall, it was only just the beginning, not the end.

Exodus From Atlanta

Fire At The Ellis Hotel

On December 7, 1946, the deadliest hotel fire in U.S. history claimed the lives of 119 people at the Ellis Hotel, formerly The Winecoff Hotel, in Atlanta, Georgia. As I was making the reservation at the Ellis yesterday, I thought I could deal. I couldn’t. I lay awake alone in my room all night thinking about the stories I’d read about it being haunted and what it would be like to be burned alive. I slipped in and out of nightmares. At some unholy hour of the night I decided that if I weren’t going to be able to take my rest, I should just get an early start on the road back to Nashville. My gas light was on, so I stopped at the first gas station I came to – one with bars on the doors and windows with a sign that read “WE SELL PEPPER SPRAY” in bold letters. Incidentally, I think this is the same gas station we’d made some kind of drunken scene in after the Dispatch show the last time I was in Atlanta. I vaguely remember something about pizza or fried chicken, or maybe it was just because she was barefoot and maybe I was involved. Anyway, I made it to the radio station in Nashville on time this morning (okay, five minutes late), wide-eyed and delirious, but I made it and just showing up is most of what life is about.

The Great American Adventure 

I don’t know how it’s taken me this long to follow a band on tour. I have a newfound respect for musicians out on the highway. I only made it to four of the six shows The Felice Brothers played in the past week and I am exhausted, and all I had to do was just show up. Louisville to Nashville to Birmingham to Atlanta. They do this for weeks at a time, playing in a different city every night, usually six nights a week. They finish one show, pack up and drive through the night to the next city and do it all over again. They don’t have roadies or a driver for their bus – they persevere because of their own blood, sweat and tears (but mostly sweat). Some guy at the show in Atlanta who thought he could Felice harder than us speculated that they sleep on their bus, I don’t really know about all that, but I don’t doubt that they would if they had to. Having the energy to put on a solid performance night after night and having any amount of patience to deal with people cornering them and talking their head off after the show (guilty) despite all of this is mind-blowing.

Shout-out to the couple I met at the show in Lexington for sharing the spirit of reckless abandon and giving me a reason to come to Birmingham and Atlanta this weekend. I do believe this is an excellent example of my theory of “if you’re the person having the most fun in the crowd at a show, all of the other fun people in the crowd will gravitate towards you.”

Speaking of reckless abandon, I understand that the Felice Brothers got their start by playing in subways in New York City. The passion, drive and blind faith I see in them is everything music should be. It’s simultaneously mournful and rapturous – while so many other musicians coming out nowadays produce something so contrived and cliche, their music flows from them in a way so natural, like the way the moon pulls waves across the ocean. It got me through some heavy trials and troubles, so I feel the least I can do is be insanely fanatical in return.

Back On The Farm

Anyway, last night was enough excitement and heightened blood pressure for a while… like, at least a week. Feels good to be back home. I was so exhausted once I got home from the radio station, even once I woke up from my nap I didn’t have the energy to go the journey to the grocery store and had planned on being bummed out about eating pretzels all night. I’m grateful that the Ukrainian who is staying in the room the Australian was in last week was generous enough to share his dinner with me as we discussed the conflict in Ukraine. For those of you who missed the memo, I’m living in a commune. I’d been in denial about it because we’re not off-the-grid or autonomous or whatever, but if we’re going by the dictionary definition, it’s a commune. So, that’s neat.

That’s enough over-sharing for a while, you may now return to your regularly scheduled programming, like this – have you ever considered that every lighting bug at which you marvel its beauty is really just trying to get laid? Think about it.